By Paris Fashion Week is the sun around which heritage fashion houses and upcoming designers orbit, working tirelessly around the clock, all year, to present a collection of ideas that can stand tall next to the titans of fashion. This season we saw brand new collections by all new creative directors walk down the runway: Dior by Jonathan Anderson, Chanel by Mathieu Blazy Loewe by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, and another surprise name, a lot closer to home – Jeevan by Hussain Rehar.
Hussain Rehar made waves in Paris last weekend with the debut of his label Jeevan at Hôtel de Maisons, capturing a distinctly Pakistani fashion identity in his garments, striding out onto one of the most prestigious stages in the world.
Hussain Rehar has grown from strength to strength since leaving his home city in Gujranwala to study at Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design in Lahore, and launching his eponymous label in 2017 – cut short eight years later and he lays claim to multiple brands (Hussain Rehar, Jugnu, Jeevan) and a showcase in Paris which spotlights local craftsmanship in a wholly fresh rendition.
Jeevan is known for its bold, contemporary edge — clothes that balance tradition with modernity through sharp tailoring, daring cuts, and playful forms. His pieces often highlight intricate handwork such as mukesh, cutdana, and bead embellishments.
Hussain Rehar isn’t the first Pakistani designer to showcase during Paris Fashion Week. There is a long lineage of designers from Pakistan who have taken their collections to international fashion weeks. From Milan to London to Paris, here are some of the biggest names in Pakistani fashion to have shown the world their designs.
Maheen Khan
A designer who is revered and respected for her craft, Khan is often considered the forebearer of many trends that we see populate the fashion landscape in Pakistan today. Maheen Khan has made history many times over, including dressing Kate Middleton, the Princess of Wales, during her visit to Pakistan. She also made history at Milan Fashion Week in 2010. Her collection showcased her signature aesthetic, defined by clean silhouettes, precise tailoring, and fluid fabrics which create graceful movement when worn – cementing her reputation as the “Coco Chanel of the East” from several commentators at the time.
Deepak Perwani
Deepak Perwani also made waves at Milan Fashion Week in 2010 along with his contemporaries, building a collection inspired by the idea of taking local crafts and elevating them to high fashion – he called this “from rural to the runway.” Using niwar bedding material, crochet by women of Haripur Hazara, and pearl embellishments, he put together bold textures and vibrant maximalism reminiscent of Prada collections. Local ajrak and dastarkhwan prints were reimagined on western cuts, bringing heritage motifs to modern day pieces.
Ali Xeeshan
In 2016, Lahore based designer Ali Xeeshan, renowned for his envelope pushing ethos, showcased his collection at Fashion Parade London. His showcase featured bold silhouettes, heavy embellishments, and dramatic head pieces all handmade by his atelier.
Sania Maskatiya
A city girl through and through – Sania Maskatiya’s urban sensibility has always influenced her collections, imbuing her classic festive-wear, wedding couture, and ready to wear with a modernity that cuts through the noise. True to Sania Studio’s identity, her debut at New York Fashion Week in 2018 offered polished ideas, clean solids in chic structures, and printed fabrics elevated by minimal embroidery and a focus on strong construction.
